Evening

My dear friend,

I can’t help continuing this spurious correspondence of ours-may it unfold itself under your eyes eventually-because it’s been such a remarkable day that I simply must talk with someone. I left Bucarest in a neat little taxicab of sorts, driven by an equally neat little man with whom I could barely exchange two words (Snagovbeing one of them). After a brief session with my road maps, and many reassuring pats on the shoulder (my shoulder, that is), we set off. It took us all of the afternoon. We puttered along roads mainly paved but very dusty, and through a lovely landscape mainly agrarian but occasionally forested, to reach Lake Snagov.

My first intimation of the place was the driver’s waving an excited hand, on which I looked out and saw only forest. This was just an introduction, however. I don’t quite know what I’d expected; I suppose I’d been so wrapped up in my historian’s curiosity that I hadn’t stopped to expect anything in particular. I was jolted out of my obsession by the first sight of the lake. It is an exceptionally lovely place, my friend, bucolic and otherworldly. Imagine, if you will, a sparkling long water, which you catch glimpses of from the road between dense groves of trees. Nestled here and there in the woods are fine villas-often you can see only an elegant chimney, or a curving wall-many of which appear to date from early in the last century, or earlier.

When you get to an opening in the forest-we parked near a little restaurant of sorts with three boats drawn up behind it-you look out across the lake to the island where the monastery lies, and there-there at last-you get a panorama that has surely changed little over centuries. The island is a short boat ride from shore and is wooded like the banks of the lake. Above its trees rise the splendid Byzantine cupolas of the monastery church, and across the water comes the sound of bells-struck (I later learned) by a monk’s wooden mallet. That sound of bells floating across the water made my heart turn over; it seemed to me exactly one of those messages from the past that cry out to be read, even if one cannot be sure what they say. My driver and I, standing there in the late-afternoon light reflected off the water, might have been spies for the Turkish army, peering out at this bastion of an alien faith, instead of two rather dusty modern men leaning against an automobile.

I could have stood looking and listening far longer without growing restless, but my determination to find the archaeologist before nightfall sent me into the restaurant. I used a little sign language and my best pidgin Latin to get us a boat to the island. Yes, yes, there was a man from Bucarest digging with a shovel over there, the owner managed to convey to me-and twenty minutes later we were disembarking on the shore of the island. The monastery was even lovelier up close, and rather forbidding, with its ancient walls and high cupolas, each crowned with an ornate seven-pointed cross. The boatman led us up steep steps to it, and I would have entered the great wooden doors at once, but the fellow pointed us around the back.

Skirting those beautiful old walls, I realized suddenly that for the first time I was actually walking in Dracula’s footsteps. Until then, I had been following his trail through a maze of documents, but now I stood on ground that his feet-in what sort of shoes? Leather boots, with a cruel spur buckled to them?-had probably trodden. If I had been one for crossing myself, I would have done it at that moment; as it was, I had the sudden urge to tap the boatman on his rough woollen shoulder and ask him to row us safely to shore again. But I didn’t, as you can imagine, and I hope I shall not ultimately regret having stayed my hand.

Behind the church, in the midst of a large ruin, we did indeed find a man with a shovel. He was a hearty-looking, middle-aged man with curly black hair, his white shirt untucked, sleeves rolled to the elbow. Two boys worked beside him, turning carefully through the soil by hand, and from time to time he set down his shovel and did the same. They were concentrated around a very small area, as if they had found something of interest there, and only when our boatman shouted a greeting did they all look up.

The man in the white shirt came forwards, scanning all of us with very sharp dark eyes, and the boatman made some sort of introduction, helped along by the driver. I held out my hand and tried one of my few Roumanian phrases before lapsing into English:“Ma numesc Bartolomeo Rossi. Nu va suparati…”I learned this delightful phrase, with which one interrupts strangers with a request for information, from the concierge at my hotel in Bucarest. It means, literally, “Don’t be angry”-can you imagine an everyday utterance more redolent of history? “Don’t pull out your dagger, friend-I’m simply lost in this wood and need directions out of it.” I don’t know whether it was my use of the phrase, or my probably atrocious accent, but the archaeologist burst into laughter as he gripped my hand.

Up close, he was a sturdy, deeply tanned fellow with a network of lines around his eyes and mouth. Two top teeth were missing from his smile, and most of the remaining ones glinted with gold. His hand was prodigiously strong, dry and rough as a farmer’s. “Bartolomeo Rossi,” he said in a rich voice, still laughing.“Ma numesc Velior Georgescu.How doo you doo? How can I help you?” For a moment I was transported to our walking trip last year; he might have been any one of those weather-beaten highlanders of whom we were constantly asking directions, only with dark hair instead of sandy.

“You speak English?” I puzzled stupidly.

“A wee bit,” said Mr. Georgescu. “It has been a long time since I have had the chance to practice, but it will come back to my toongue yet.” His speech was fluent and rich, with the burr of a rolled “r.”

“I beg your pardon,” I said hastily. “I understand you have a special interest in Vlad III and I would very much like to talk with you. I’m an historian from Oxford University.”

He nodded. “I’m glad to hear of your interest. Have you coome so far just to see his grave?”

“Well, I had hoped -”

“Ah, you hooped, you hooped,” said Mr. Georgescu, clapping me on the shoulder not unkindly. “But I shall have to bring down your hoopes a bit, my lad.” My heart leapt-was it possible that this man, too, thought Vlad was not buried here? But I decided to bide my time and listen carefully before asking any more questions. He was studying me quizzically, and now he smiled again. “Coome, I’ll take you for the walking toour.” He gave his assistants a few quick instructions, which appeared to be an invitation to stop working, for they brushed off their hands and flopped down under a tree. Leaning his shovel against a half-excavated wall, he beckoned to me. In my turn, I let the driver and boatman know I was taken care of and crossed the boatman’s palm with silver. He touched his hat and disappeared, and the driver sat down against the ruin and took out a pocket flask.

“Very good. We will go around the outside first.” Mr. Georgescu waved a broad hand about him. “You know the history of this island? A little? There was a church here in the fourteenth century, and the monastery was built a wee bit later, also in that century. The first church was wooden, and the second was stoone, but the stoone church sank right into the lake in 1453. Remarkable, doon’t you think? Dracula came to power in Wallachia for the second time in 1462, and he had his own ideas. I believe he liked this monastery because an island is easy to protect-he was always looking for places he could fortify against the Turks. This is a good one, doon’t you think?”

I agreed, trying not to stare at him. The man’s English was so fascinating that I was finding it hard to concentrate on what he said, but his last point had sunk in. It took only a glance around to picture even a few monks defending this stronghold from invaders. Velior Georgescu was gazing about us with approval, too. “Therefoore, Vlad made a fortress of the existing monastery. He built fortified walls around it, and a prison and a toorture chamber. Also an escape tunnel and a bridge to the shore. He was a canny lad, Vlad was. The bridge is long gone, of course, and I am excavating the rest. This, where we are digging now, was the prison. We have found several skeletons in it already.” He smiled broadly and his gold teeth gleamed in the sun.