“Maybe I’d expected another grand public space, like that at Rila; the intimacy and beauty of the main courtyard at Bachkovo brought a sigh to my lips, and Helen murmured something aloud, too. The monastery church filled much of the courtyard, and its towers were red, angular, Byzantine. There were no gold domes here, only an ancient elegance-the simplest materials arranged in harmonious forms. Vines grew on the church towers; trees nestled against them; one magnificent cypress rose like a steeple. Three monks in black robes and hats stood talking outside the church. The trees threw patches of shade on the brilliant sun of the yard, and a soft breeze had come up, moving the leaves. To my surprise, chickens ran here and there, scratching the antique paving stones, and a striped kitten was chasing something into a crevice in the wall.
“As at Rila, the inside walls of the monastery were long balconied galleries, stone and wood. The stone lower wall of some of the galleries, like the portico of the church, was covered in faded frescoes. Apart from the three monks, the chickens, and the kitten, there was no one in sight. We were alone there, alone in Byzantium.
“Ranov went up to the monks and engaged them in conversation while Helen and I hung back a little. After a second he returned. ‘The abbot is away, but the librarian is here and can help us.’ I didn’t like thatus, but I said nothing. ‘You can look in the church while I go find him.’
“‘We will come with you,’ Helen said firmly, and we all followed one of the monks into the galleries. The librarian was working in a room on the first floor; he rose from his desk to greet us as we entered. The space was bare, except for an iron stove and a bright rug on the floor. I wondered where the books were, the manuscripts. Apart from a couple of volumes on the wooden desk, I saw no sign of a library here.
“‘This is Brother Ivan,’ Ranov explained. The monk bowed to us without offering his hand; in fact, his hands were tucked out of sight in his long sleeves, crossed over his body. It occurred to me that he didn’t want to touch Helen. The same thing must have occurred to Helen, because she backed away and stood almost behind me. Ranov exchanged a few words with him. ‘Brother Ivan asks you to please sit down.’ We sat obediently. Brother Ivan had a long, serious face above his beard, and he studied us for a few minutes. ‘You may ask him some questions,’ Ranov said encouragingly.
“I cleared my throat. There was no help for it; we were going to have to ask our questions in front of Ranov. I would have to try to make them sound purely scholarly. ‘Would you ask Brother Ivan for us if he knows anything about pilgrims coming here from Wallachia?’
“Ranov put this question to the monk, and at the wordWallachia, Brother Ivan’s face brightened. ‘He says the monastery had an important connection with Wallachia beginning at the end of the fifteenth century.’
“My heart began to pound, although I tried to sit quietly. ‘Yes? What was that?’
“They conversed a little further, Brother Ivan waving a long hand toward the door. Ranov nodded. ‘He says that around that time the princes of Wallachia and Moldova began to give much support to this monastery. There are manuscripts in the library here that describe their support.’
“‘Does he know why they did this?’ Helen asked quietly.
“Ranov questioned the monk. ‘No,’ he said. ‘He only knows these manuscripts show their support.’
“‘Ask him,’ I said, ‘if he knows of any groups of pilgrims coming here from Wallachia around that time.’
“Brother Ivan actually smiled. ‘Yes,’ Ranov reported. ‘There were many. This was an important stop on the pilgrimage routes from Wallachia. Many pilgrims went on from here to Athos or to Constantinople.’
“I could have ground my teeth. ‘But a particular group of pilgrims from Wallachia, carrying a-some kind of relic, or searching for some relic-does he know any such story?’
“Ranov seemed to be holding back a triumphant smile. ‘No,’ he said. ‘He has not seen any account of such pilgrims. There were many pilgrims during that century.Bachkovski manastir was very important then. The patriarch of Bulgaria was exiled here from his office in Veliko Trnovo, the old capital, when the Ottomans captured the country. He died here in 1404 and was buried here. The oldest part of the monastery, and the only part that is original, is the ossuary.’
“Helen spoke up again. ‘Could you ask him, please, if he has a monk among the brothers here who used to be named Pondev?’
“Ranov relayed the question, and Brother Ivan looked puzzled, then wary. ‘He says that must be old Brother Angel. He used to be named Vasil Pondev, and he was an historian. But he is not-right in the head-anymore. You will not learn anything from speaking with him. The abbot is our great scholar now, and it is a shame that he is away while you are here.’
“‘We’d still like to talk with Brother Angel,’ I told Ranov. And so it was arranged, although with much frowning on the part of the librarian, who led us back out into the glowing sunlight of the courtyard and through a second arched entryway. This brought us into another courtyard, which had a very old building in the center. This second courtyard was not as well-tended as the first, and the buildings and paving stones had a crumbling, derelict look. There were weeds underfoot, and I noted a tree growing from the corner of the roof; in time, it would be large enough to destroy that end of the structure, if they let it stay. I could easily imagine that repairing this house of God was not the Bulgarian government’s highest priority. They had Rila as their showcase, with its ‘pure’ Bulgarian history and its connections to rebellion against the Ottomans. This ancient place, beautiful as it was, had taken root under the Byzantines, invaders and occupiers like the later Ottomans, and it had been Armenian, Georgian, Greek-hadn’t we just heard that it had also been independent under the Ottomans, unlike the other Bulgarian monasteries? No wonder the government let trees grow out of its roofs.
“The librarian took us into a corner room. ‘The infirmary,’ Ranov explained. This cooperative version of Ranov was making me more nervous by the hour. The librarian opened a rickety wooden door, and inside we saw a scene of such pathos that I don’t really like to remember it. Two old monks were housed there. The room was furnished only with their cots, a single wooden chair, and an iron stove; even with that stove the place must have been bitterly cold during the mountain winters. The floor was stone, the walls bare whitewash except for a shrine in one corner: hanging lamp, elaborately carved shelf, tarnished icon of the Virgin.
“One of the old men was lying on his cot and did not look at us as we entered. I saw after a moment that his eyes were permanently closed, swollen and red, and that he turned his chin from time to time as if trying to see with it. He was mostly covered with a white sheet, and one of his hands fumbled with the edge of the cot, as if to find the limit of space, the point where he might roll off if he wasn’t careful, while his other hand fumbled with the loose flesh of his own neck.
“The more functional resident of the room was upright in the only chair, a staff leaning against the wall near him as if his journey from the cot to the seat had been a long one. He was dressed in black robes, which hung unbelted over a protruding belly. His eyes were open, and hugely blue, and they turned on us with uncanny seeing as we entered. His whiskers and hair stuck out like white weeds all around him, and his head was bare. Somehow this made him look more ill and anomalous than anything else did, this uncovered head in a world in which all monks wore their tall black hats constantly. This bareheaded monk could have been an illustration for a prophet in some nineteenth-century Bible, except that his expression was anything but visionary. He wrinkled his big nose upward as if we smelled bad, and chewed the corners of his mouth, and narrowed and widened his eyes every few minutes. I couldn’t have said whether he looked fearful, or sneering, or diabolically amused, because his expression shifted constantly. His body and hands reposed in the shabby chair, as if all the motions they might have made had been sucked upward into his twitching face. I looked away.