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"It was an agricultural reform camp, when I was only a child. My family was sent because my father was a professor. A small army of workers brought the night soil in big clay jars on bicycle racks. Usually we just poured it into the rice fields. But there would be times when the jars stood in the sun and dried, so they would dump it in long piles, or make us scrape it out with our hands. What I remember most of all was how, when it rained, everything turned wet and smelly and too soft to put on a shovel."

The monk contemplated Shan a long time. "This isn't like that at all," he said, very seriously. Shan stared back, and the man's stern expression slowly warmed to a grin.

"Is the gompa delivering this to the villagers?"

"The gompa is just getting rid of its stockpile. Too old-fashioned they say, reminds them of the olds. Doesn't set the right example. We must show the people what prosperity means," he said in the tone of a political officer. Gyalo gestured toward the shadows where the stables abutted the outer wall. Several large metal gas cylinders were lined up along the wall.

"The medicals brought you in?" he asked Shan after throwing a few more shovelfuls on the cart. He made it sound as if the doctors were arresting their patients.

Shan shook his head. "I was still in the mountains with my friends. We found a monk named Padme on the Plain of Flowers. He had been attacked by someone and needed our help."

Gyalo studied Shan carefully again and seemed about to ask him something. "May the blessed Buddha watch over Padme Rinpoche," he said instead, quickly, in his stiff tone. "Prayers were offered for him in the chapel." Shan looked at the monk, and wondered why he, and he alone, was shoveling the dung. Was it a punishment? Gyalo didn't say he had offered prayers for Padme, only that prayers were offered. And why did he and the monks at the gate call the young monk Rinpoche, a term usually reserved for older, venerated teachers?

"Do those doctors come often?" Shan asked.

The monk frowned. "Not these, these are special," he said, and leaned on his shovel, studying Shan again. "Where did you learn to speak Tibetan so well? Only Chinese I've known who spoke Tibetan worked for the government."

"I did work for the government. Building roads. I carried one of those," Shan said with a gesture toward the stack of baskets.

The monk winced then pointed toward the clinic at the opposite corner of the compound. "This region was once full of medicine lamas. Famous for healers. It meant people were slow to change their ways, slow to retreat from religion, slow to embrace the Chinese doctors. The government wants to be sure people don't get sick."

"You mean don't get healed the wrong way."

Gyalo fixed Shan with a pointed gaze.

Shan considered the monk's words again. "So you mean those people waiting aren't sick?" He had seen sick people, he recalled; one hiding from doctors in the salt camp, the other waiting on the trail- the woman who had refused Lokesh's offer of help.

"They were told to come down from the mountains to be checked. For innoculations. For papers."

"Papers?"

"Those doctors arrived two weeks ago, and just stayed. Mostly they have meetings in the offices. Sometimes a knob officer with a pockmarked face comes, a man with dirty ice for eyes. And they all have radios like soldiers. Not everyone wearing one of those blue suits is a doctor," Gyalo warned in a low voice. "And even the real doctors are issuing new health cards, like identity cards. Everyone has to record exactly what doctors they have seen in the past five years, including Tibetan healers. And they have to sign papers that come from the office. When that knob comes he makes people read."

"Read? Read what?"

"Anything. A paragraph from a Serenity Campaign pamphlet. A line from the medical forms." Gyalo frowned toward the far corner, where several of the Han in blue could still be seen. "Some people came willingly at first. But now, most don't come on their own. Soldiers provide trucks. Or men like soldiers, wearing white shirts," he said, with a meaningful glance at Shan.

Shan stared at the monk. Howlers wore white shirts sometimes, but howlers were not soldiers, howlers were the political officers of modern Tibet. "You mean there are Public Security soldiers posing as howlers? As doctors?"

"Norbu gompa is like a border post, at the edge of the wilderness, hidden from the rest of the world. A place for experiments."

Shan eyed the monk closely. "You mean this county is experimenting somehow? With politics?"

"The authority that controls us is the Bureau of Religious Affairs. The county council ignores us. Norbu District of the Bureau, that's who we are, a district bigger than the county, running north across the mountains even, into Qinghai Province. All run by Religious Affairs in Amdo town and by those who sit in those offices," he said, nodding toward the first of the two-story buildings.

Shan worked in silence for several minutes. "If those doctors came two weeks ago, then they're not here because the Deputy Director was killed."

Gyalo nodded, rubbing the yak's head. "That Tuan, most people just know him as head of Religious Affairs. But he spent twenty years in Public Security first. The perfect credential for running Religious Affairs in such a tradition-bound district," Gyalo said bitterly, then looked up at Shan. "Not all the people they want to bring here will come. Some just hide and wait. I used to go and help the herders and the farmers when I could. Now they seldom give me permission to leave without an escort."

"But Padme was far away, by himself," Shan said slowly. "A day's walk from here, without even a water bottle."

"Padme doesn't need permission," Gyalo said into the yak's ear, in a loud whisper. "And he never walks far."

"But we found him. No horse. No cart. Like a hermit, we thought."

Gyalo, grinning, seemed to think Shan had offered a good joke. He stopped looking at Shan, and conversed only with the yak now. "If you study enough, and find the right awareness, an old lama told me, you can learn to fly," he said to the animal, and flapped his arms like a bird's wings.

Shan looked at him uneasily. "Was he also looking for that man with a fish?"

Gyalo bent over the yak's head. "Maybe this one doesn't know about dropka and sacred lakes. Maybe he doesn't know what swims in sacred waters."

Shan looked skeptically from the monk to the yak, wondering about the man's mental condition.

The monk turned his back and Shan returned the shovel to the stable wall. But as Shan stepped away the monk spoke once more. "He shouldn't let that nun go upstairs," Gyalo said to the yak. When Shan turned the monk was bent over the yak, straightening a tangle of the animal's long black hair, as if he had said nothing, as if Shan had already gone.

Shan moved slowly back toward the chapel and found it empty. Don't let Nyma go upstairs. Shan wandered toward the first of the two-story buildings, the one nearest the gate, the one with the banner. There were wooden plaques he had not read before along the front of the building. They weren't religious teachings, he saw now with a chill, although they were done with the graceful embellished Tibetan script used for such quotes. Use Buddha to Serve the People, one said. Endow the Words of Buddha with Chinese Socialism, read another.

He circled the building slowly, examining the two ropes of prayer flags that connected it with the adjacent structure. One line were mani flags, inscribed with the mantra to the Compassionate Buddha. But he had been mistaken about the second line. It consisted of minature red flags bearing one large star in the upper left corner, with an arc of four stars beside it. The flag of the People's Republic of China. He paced slowly along the western wall of the compound and watched as four dropka entered one of the decrepit buildings in the center of the western wall. He followed them through a door of dried cracked wood down a corridor of creaking floorboards into a small chapel, no more than twelve feet long and eight wide. The room was crowded with over a dozen Tibetans, sitting worshipfully before a small bronze statue of the teacher Guru Rinpoche. On the wall, on either side of the statue were old faded thangkas of Tara, eight in all, the eight aspects of the deity, which offered protection from eight specific fears. Shan recognized several. There was one that protected the devout from snakes and envy, another that shielded them from delusion and elephants, one more that provided protection from thieves. Above the statue was a much smaller thangka, also old and faded, of a deity Shan did not recognize at first. A dropka woman made room beside her and he sat, studying the thangka. Suddenly with a start he recognized it. It was not an old thangka, only cleverly crafted to look old to disguise it. It was a representation of a lama with a peaceful smile, mendicant staff over his shoulder, hand raised with the index finger and thumb touching in what was called the teaching mudra. It was the Fourteenth Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatse, the current Dalai Lama.