Nyma darted toward a huge cylinder hung in a scaffold near the center of the rear wall, a beautifully-crafted prayer wheel. But as she reached to touch it the novice called her away, and quickened his pace again to lead them past a row of vehicles parked along the wall, one a large van with the markings of an ambulance. A stern Han man in a sky blue uniform stepped around the end of the van, studying them intensely as he lit a cigarette.

"A special medical team from Lhasa," the novice explained in his nervous boyish voice. "They travel the countryside to help the local people. They have been on an extended assignment for weeks, coming from the south, near the Indian border, visiting local villages and camps. Seldom do the people get to see real doctors."

Real doctors. Lokesh looked back at Shan. Once there had been a college for real doctors, on the Plain of Flowers.

Tenzin had lingered by the mound of dung. As he approached, Shan saw that he had spread some of the mound's dry, dusty contents on his cheeks and pulled his hat low.

As they continued around the southwest corner a line of perhaps twenty Tibetans came into view inside a line of wooden stanchions threaded with rope. Half a dozen more men and women, mostly Han, all wearing the light blue uniforms, were grouped at the door of a small building, studying the Tibetans in line. The rongpa and dropka in line all wore the same anxious look as the young monk. They did not look sick. They just looked worried.

A man wearing a fleece vest called Lhandro by name, gesturing him closer as though he feared stepping out of line. But when Lhandro took a step toward the man the novice touched his arm to restrain him. "The doctors don't like anyone interfering," he said in an earnest tone. Shan heard one of the men in blue remind the Tibetans to have their papers ready for inspection.

The third of the central buildings was a longer lower structure that did not share the polished look of the first two structures. Patches of stucco were falling off the rear wall. Two red pillars straddled a thick wooden door, ornately carved with images of the Historical Buddha's life, that appeared to have been salvaged from an older building and set into a metal frame. They stepped into an entryway of rough plank flooring into a large chamber with a concrete floor. Half a dozen monks sat on cushions on the cold, hard floor, facing an altar topped with yellow plastic laminate on which sat a four-foot-high plaster statue of the Historical Buddha, Sakyamuni, painted in garish colors. Beside the Buddha was a small table with offering bowls and a smoldering cone of incense.

"Our lhakang," their guide explained. The gompa's main chapel.

Lokesh took one look at the statue and sat down among the monks. Their escort raised his hand as though to protest, then Nyma sat, and Tenzin.

"There are so few temples in the mountains," Shan observed pointedly.

The monk studied Shan and opened his mouth with an inquisitive glint, then, as Lhandro, too, joined the others on the floor, he shrugged. "Please be with us for the evening meal," he said. "Listen for the bell." He turned and stepped out of the chapel.

Shan sat with his friends for half an hour, breathing in the fragrant incense, studying a row of freshly painted thangkas on the wall, folding and unfolding his legs. But he could not find the mindfulness of meditation and finally stood and stepped outside, walking along a low abandoned wall that ran between the second and third buildings. It had once been a thick wall of stone, the foundation of a substantial building. He slowly circled the other two central buildings, noting with satisfaction the ropes of prayer flags that connected the upper corners of the first two buildings, then found himself before the prayer wheel at the rear of the grounds. It was beautifully crafted, six feet high and nearly three across, made of finely worked copper and brass. He touched it and, to his surprise it spun freely, turning almost an entire revolution. It was hung with heavy ball bearings, as though an engineer, not a monk, had designed it. Under it he noticed a plaque in Chinese and Tibetan. He had sometimes seen similar plaques, declaring that a wheel or statue had been donated by a youth league, or the friends of a gompa. But this one, like the giant wheel itself, was unlike any he had seen before. Operating hours 8A.M. to 8P.M., it said. He stared at it, not understanding, then heard someone at the old stable by the giant pile of dung. Stepping tentatively toward the sound he discovered a stocky monk speaking to a huge shaggy black yak that stood beside the wooden cart. The monk was shoveling dung from the pile into the cart, addressing the yak in a conversational tone as he worked.

After a moment Shan realized he had seen him before. He slipped into the shadow along the wall of the stable and watched the man, who was so absorbed in his work and discussion with the yak that it was five minutes before he noticed Shan. He acknowledged Shan's presence only by pausing a moment, ceasing to speak to the yak, then continuing his labor of transferring the dung to the cart.

"I hope you didn't get stuck again that day," Shan ventured.

The monk turned and grunted as he studied, first Shan, then the empty grounds beyond him. He offered an uncertain nod. "Twice more," he replied. "They canceled the schedule and came back here." The words caused Shan to turn and study the gompa grounds himself. "The Bureau of Religious Affairs is here?"

"Everywhere," the monk replied in a reluctant tone, shoveling more dung into the cart. People didn't talk about the howlers, just as they didn't talk about knobs or other demons.

"Someone worked hard to bring all that fuel here," Shan observed.

"Someone did," the monk agreed once more, eyeing Shan warily. He turned away and continued shoveling. "Local farmers, and herders. Sometimes it is all they can afford to give. Once they would go without their hearthfires to bring fuel to the gompa."

"You said you came from Khang-nyi gompa," Shan recalled.

"Right. Second House, it's the old name, the original name for this place. There was a big gompa, the First House, up on the high plain to the north. This was a station for those traveling there, or those waiting for lamas to come down."

Shan found a shovel leaning against the stable, an old handmade implement with a wooden blade, and began helping the monk. "I did this once before, only wet," he said after a few minutes.

The man paused with his shovel still in the pile. "Wet?"

"Rice paddies," Shan said. "In Liaoning Province. I wasn't given any choice."

The man nodded and kept working. "You mean they forced you?"

Shan threw another shovelful on the cart. "Soldiers," he confirmed. "They mostly stayed away because of the smell. Just came close to beat us with bamboo canes when we stopped working."

They labored on in silence. From somewhere came music, the singsong strains of Chinese opera.

"The smell?" the monk asked, after he seemed to have considered Shan's words for several minutes.

"The soldiers were from the city," Shan said with a sigh.

The monk contemplated Shan, resting his shovel, one hand stroking the back of the big black animal. "Yak dung doesn't smell bad."

"This was human. Night soil, from the cities, too."

The man worked a moment and stopped again. He slowly put his hand on the handle of Shan's shovel and pushed it down. "I am called Gyalo. I am just a rongpa at heart. They wanted some monks from the local farm laborer class two years ago, and my grandmother had always wanted me to be a monk. They gave me a license. They like to take me to see other laborers now." He looked at Shan expectantly. It was Shan's turn to explain.